Tacoma guitars with no binding

[dave d]

There are hand tools like this http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.a ... 1182,41200 (used after the top has been trimmed flush) that can put a small radius on a corner. However, because in this situation you are doing a lot of end grain cutting, it would have to be very sharp and even 1/16" may be too much to take off. So there's a potential for catching a piece of the grain and getting the mother of all tear-outs. Still, it's something that personally I would try, although I would also try using the router without hesitation too, and just do a controlled climb-cut.

[Dave Bagwill]

I suppose even with the hand tool, using a climb-out would be good policy. Thanks, that tool is a good choice I think.
For peace of mind, though - sanding just seems a better bet for me. One chip-out can ruin your day.

[Kevin in California]

Dave,
How about making an inside radiused sanding block and some stick on sand paper, and going at that edge.

Kevin

[Dave Bagwill]

Kevin - I've been thinking about that - but it is such a small radius - about 1/8" - that the thickness of the sandpaper alone means I'd have to calculate a little larger radius to accommodate it. But I think you're on the right track.

[Tim Benware]

You're over thinking it. I have no problems at all sanding that radius with a regular sanding block just like this:



Only I paid less for mine:)

[Dave Bagwill]

Tim - thanks for the reality check. I have a block just like that and I'm going to practice on my next guitar - I mean, on some scrap :-) - and just take my time and be careful. I still think that 40-grit is going to tear the fibers though.
Just kidding..

[Robert Hosmer]

FWIW, the cornering tool mentioned by ddietz should perform very well and very quickly for this type of application. Broken down to basic principle, it's just a molding plane!
Keep it properly sharpened, and it will be very quick and accurate. The beauty of this tool is that it is self-limiting on depth of cut; once the proper radius is reached, it stops cutting and just slides. Yes, it will work on endgrain. Just like any other plane, you wanna be aware of grain direction, so switch direction at the bouts. But it will handle the endgrain (top and bottom of the guitar) just fine.

The tool I use is very similar to the ones posted by ddietz, but it's a "set" that has no handles and includes a sharpening kit. (I cut mine in half and made handles for better user comfort.) http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.a ... 1182,41200
I like the little sharpening jig provided, but I like to hone up to 1200 grit instead of just the recommended 600. Maybe that's overkill; I dunno...

I have used it on cabinet doors, countertops, butcher blocks, cutting boards, etc. Just about anything that was too much of a fuss to get out the router.
My most memorable use for this simple tool was an hourglass-shaped coffee table. (Hmm... a lot like a guitar shape!) That was a solid tabletop made out of bubinga. Didn't even have to sand the cut edge before applying finish.