Acoustic Guitar Construction

The issue/point here is that if you use Zpoxy as a filler you need to use a top coating that has solvents that are able to melt/etch the Zpoxy. Otherwise the top coat is just hanging on and is a seperate chipable layer. This is exactly why I contacted Pacer with my compatibility concerns. The strong solvents in nitro will work and as the Truoil tech points out -- other stuff will simply peel off in time. ---- Nitro satin is my recommendation.

kencierp wrote:The issue/point here is that if you use Zpoxy as a filler you need to use a top coating that has solvents that are able to melt/etch the Zpoxy. Otherwise the top coat is just hanging on and is a seperate chipable layer. This is exactly why I contacted Pacer with my compatibility concerns. The strong solvents in nitro will work and as the Truoil tech points out -- other stuff will simply peel off in time. ---- Nitro satin is my recommendation.

This was my experience as well with the one and only neck i tried to fill with z-poxy followed with TO..the rest that needed filling were done using TO for the pore filling as described in Dave's post.

Ray :>)

Ok, Nitro it is then. Can I use the same Deft High gloss rattle can stuff and rub it with steel wool/ scotchbrite after about 6 coats, for a satin finish or should I just shoot the satin rattle can stuff. Thanks again, Jack.

I've dulled down gloss and semi gloss with 0000 steel wool, looks OK. But it does look a little "scrathy/swirly" to me.

I used Satin Watco lacquer here:
viewtopic.php?f=24&t=746&start=10

And I think the finish is 1st class -- I did nothing to the final coat.

I was reading this whole thread as I've been a fan of Tru-Oil since my gun building days in the early seventies. So when I began to finish guitars Tru-Oil was my first choice. Surprised me to find out other more expert builders also used the product. The last thing I built was an old Kay Parlor guitar out of the fifties or sixties. I had to build the neck from a block of Honduran Mahogany. It was the first time I ever used a grain filler. Always relying on wetting the wood to raise the grain and steel wool to cut the grain tips off. But I used Behlen Por-O-Fill. I noticed that it did in fact help out as the straight Tru-Oil sometimes took many coats before the grain was truly smooth. Like I said I've used TO for many different projects and have no complaints.
With that said I'm going to go to French Polish on my current build. I've seen it applied and the only complaint I can think of with Tru-Oil is the drying time. This does not seem to be a problem with French Polish as it's dry as soon as it's applied. The alcohol dries immediately. So I've got to try it on one build anyway. If I don't like it I'll scratch it off and go back to the tried and True.